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Nothing beats a tender cut of milk-fed veal!

Oct 15, 2002 6:14 AM

   BEEF IS KING! Unless you’re an Italian American. Then it runs a distant second to veal, the meat of choice of paisanos and their friends. Chances are good that if you’re Italian and serve veal, every one will show up for dinner. I always did.

   My grandmother, God bless her soul, served veal with pride. She served it family style, of course.

   My favorite was veal Parmesan. Gram would pound out the cutlets with either a roller or a wooden mallet until they were tender enough to cut with a fork. She dredged them in beaten eggs, lightly dusted them with breadcrumbs and gave them a quick sauté in a hot pan. Then she would pile three of the cutlets on top of each other and layer mozzarella cheese in between. It was then covered with gravy (sauce), topped with more mozzarella and put in the broiler to melt and brown the cheese. No one cooked veal like she did.

   Since it was as pricey then as it is today, veal was reserved for special occasions. When she served it I never bothered to ask what macaroni (pasta) was going with it. It didn’t matter.

   If you think I have veal on my mind, you’re right. I had a taste for it the other night. Any of the three Italian restaurants I frequent serve the dish. But, I ended up at Roma Deli where Roberto ??? has a thing with veal parmesan.

   Mama mia it was good

   BACK TO THE BEEF! For those steak knife-wielding diners who enjoy a good cut of beef, take the time to stop by the Yukon Grill at Arizona Charlie’s West. The popular Western-themed restaurant recently brought over chef Ed Bellantine from Charlie’s East, and he’s done a magnificent job.

   Among the great grill offerings are a monstrous rib eye steak, lean and tender prime rib of beef, a juicy filet mignon and a superb New York steak. Chef Ed also does a great roast rack of lamb, served with a honey Creole sauce and pecans that is out of this world.

   The chef’s favorites also include fresh seafood dishes, Chicken Oscar, sizzling lobster, an Asian-inspired teriyaki-wrapped shrimp. Regardless of what you order, save room for a wondrous crème brulee!

   DAN THE MAN’S BIRTHDAY BASH! Our good friend Dan “The Blue Grass Man” Chandler is celebrating his birthday on Thursday night with a big bash at the Rampart Casino in Summerlin. Rampart owners Bill Paulos and Bill Wortman (a twin Bill?) are throwing the shindig for their prize casino development host, so it should be the high point of the social season!

   The party will be held at 7 p.m. in Addison’s at the Rampart, and all the friends and acquaintances of Dan are cordially invited to attend and wish him well. As we’ve seen how these parties turn out, be sure to bring bail money!

   IT SHOULD BE SPECTACULAR: Most Las Vegans probably have forgotten that the visionary Steve Wynn had contracted with the Broadway genius, Jerry Herman, to write a show for him. Little has been written about the arrangement until last week when N.Y. Post columnist Liz Smith wrote about a luncheon she had had with the successful songwriter.

   Seems Herman moved west from New York City a decade ago because of ill health. That was after staging such wonderful musicals such as “Hello Dolly,” “Mame” “Milk and Honey,” and “La Cage aux Folles.”

   But now, healthy and revitalized, Herman is back in the Big Apple ready to once again hit the lights of Broadway. And that’s where Wynn’s show comes into play. Said Ms. Smith, “Jerry wrote a show for Steve Wynn of Las Vegas who wanted ”˜spectacle and music.’ This one turned out better than Jerry hoped. He said, ”˜I simply love it.’ We’ll see ”˜Miss Spectacular’ next year, being directed and choreographed by none other than Tommy Tune.”