Great dining takes place at Center Stage!

May 13, 2003 5:39 AM

The Center Stage Restaurant at the Plaza is aptly named ”” guests must feel like they’re on stage, performing in the klieg light glow of the Fremont Street Experience.

The venerable dining room that overlooks Fremont Street through a glass dome canopy is a classic affair in the genre of classic Las Vegas. The split-level dining room is accented with brass fixtures, hardwood furnishing, celebrity photos on the walls and first-cabin service right out of Las Vegas’ Golden Age.

While dinner shows have become a rarity in Las Vegas, Center Stage affords its guests a nightly spectacular, the glittery Fremont Street Experience.

Even before the Fremont Street Experience was built, this classic dining room for decades charmed its guests with its first-rate food and breathtaking view overlooking Fremont Street.

The menu is a blend of Continental specialties and steakhouse favorites, all served at surprisingly reasonable prices (the cost to dine here is a good 45 percent-50 percent below the cost of a comparable Strip gourmet room).

Among the house favorites are the Pacific Salmon served with fresh Roma tomatoes and a dill cream sauce; veal Marsala; orange roughy Franchese; prime rib ”” slow roasted and served with natural juices; and superb steaks ”” 14-ounce New York steak, magnum cut New York Steak, 20-ounce Porterhouse steak and a tender filet mignon, served in a thyme infused port demi glaze reduction or béarnaise with sautéed mushrooms.

Seafood lovers are never disappointed with Center Stage’s Alaskan King crab legs and Australian lobster tails.

Like most fine restaurants, Center Stage serves innovative appetizers that can accent a great entrée, or combined into a satisfying meal.

For a treat, try the baked crab cakes with a tangy honey-Dijon mustard sauce; shrimp cocktail with horseradish cocktail sauce; clams Chardonnay in a shallot wine broth; or a tasty bruschetta di Pomodora, which is topped with fresh tomatoes, basil and garlic.

You would be wise to save some of your appetite for dessert: the chocolate mousse cake and tiramisu are absolutely sinful.